I drafted a pattern from scratch for this outfit. A couple years back I had started on the waffenrok, but had issues patterning the bodice/doublet part using the Reconstructing History pattern. It was initially designed to cross over in the front, but the pattern just did not work right. I do not recommend that commercial pattern line to anyone, ever. So we started over in December, choosing to make this one lace up the sides with eyelets. He plans to wear this fighting rapier so it needed to have some ease to move around. We made a mock up pattern in cotton, then transferred the pattern to paper for use with future projects.
It has three layers of fabric in the bodice, and is made of red linen. The blue trim/guards are wool. The skirt is knife pleated to the bodice. I wanted to do the German rolled pleats but we only used three yards of fabric in the skirt so there wasn't enough for rolled pleats.
I still need to add some blue trim to the wrists (making them a bit longer) and one more guard on the skirt, but he wanted to wear it to this event so I got it done enough for a trial run! The hat, hose, shoes, and shirt were his own, except I redid the collar on his shirt (or "hemd" in German) for him to fit (see last picture), as the seamstress who originally made it used the Reconstructing History pattern which made the neckhole waaay too big.
Here are some inspiration images from the time period, 1500-1530 or so.