Wednesday, December 26, 2012

Current Project: Elizabethan Jacket

Ah yes, the Elizabethan embroidered jacket that we see quite often. Must mean they're awesome!

Here's one of the inspiration jackets. This one is linen and hand-embroidered (obviously). Mine will actually look quite similar. I drafted my own pattern based on the waistcoat patterns in Janet Arnold and Tudor Tailor.

I have this lovely light gold silk with purple embroidered flowers that I bought in San Diego a whole year ago. Jacket will be lined in gold silk, and I have gold lace for the edges and antique gold braid for the seam accents.

Here's how it looks now: lining and fashion fabric sewn into little vests :) Next step, the hip gores!













             Here's the back lining and front fashion fabric pattern pieces.

Tuesday, December 25, 2012

Finally Fully Fixed Pink "Florentine" Dress

I showed the fixed version of this dress about a year and a half ago, but I recently fixed it a bit more, and now I'm not gonna fix it any more... ha!

I've decided that this is the FINAL fixed dress. At this point I would have to take it totally apart to change anything else. The only changes from the previous fix are the sleeves- I remade them since I had a bit of fabric left over. The last sleeves were too long, too tight, and a lousy pattern at the top. They only had two ribbons tying them on.

I made a tie-on sleeve pattern last year that fits my weird arms and shoulders, so I used that for the new sleeves, and they now have four ribbons. It's a much better look now.

I feel that the dress now looks more Florentine than English. My persona is English but this dress didn't feel English at all. I also don't think baby pink is a good "English" color. So Florentine it is!

Issues with this dress overall, that would take too much work to fix now:
1. I made the bodice too big.
2. It needs more boning- the bodice doesn't really support me at all.
3. The bodice is about an inch too long at the waist.

Other than that, I still quite like this dress. I can wear it to camping events and still look dressed up. It's a nice in-between outfit that's nicer than a kirtle and more casual than a gown. It looks good on me except the fact that the bodice is a bit loose.

Sunday, September 30, 2012

14th Century White Linen Kirtle

I haven't been sewing much this summer, but I did make a couple things here and there. This is a white linen kirtle, about 14th century or so. I wanted something that would be cooler for summer events, still be flattering, and keep my skin covered from the sun.

It has 32 hand bound eyelets. They took longer than every other part of construction. It is self supporting, but my friends say it looks better with a bra- that's why the chest gaps in the picture.

For the pattern, I took a fitted t shirt, lengthened it, and nipped it in at the waist and hips to make this very snug. It's comfy and flattering!

Saturday, June 9, 2012

Elizabethan Fitted Gown

Hello blog world! I have been slowly working on a few projects here and there over the last couple months. I didn't have any events that I absolutely needed something new for, which is a good reason to be working on things. Also, I have taken on a small costuming job for a local theatre production, so that eats up my sewing time too.

Here's a mostly complete English fitted over gown, that will be used as a coat for chillier events. White cotton damask, white silk lining, cartridge-pleated skirt, attached collar. Just needs some way to close it. For the time being I'm going to sew white ribbon bows on to tie it closed, but once I get some money collected I'm going to buy some fancy fox-head cloak clasps.

Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Gold Elizabethan Corset

Well I've finally finished my new corset, after avoiding doing the eyelets for so long. Once I started on them again, I got them all done pretty quickly, and then the binding too.

 Front of the corset. I really like the two-tone gold silks.
Inside of the corset, showing how I didn't mess up this time!

Corset is a gold silk taffeta, with a twill interlining and a cotton duck cloth lining. The boning channels are sewn thru the top two layers only to prevent the boning from rubbing on my skin (which was a major issue with the last corset). The binding is a dark gold silk dupioni, the same as on my old purple corset. And most importantly, this one fits! The purple one was too big.

I have to say that this corset is a really great example of my current skill level. I feel like each garment I make is an improvement on the last. Nowhere to go but up, I hope!

Saturday, March 10, 2012

Red Gown Revamp

A couple weeks ago I finished fixing up my favorite gown. It's an Elizabethan with a french vibe. The always amazing Noelle constructed the bodice and skirt back in late 2009 before I could sew much for myself. I added tie-on sleeves, a bit of lace on the edges, and (crappy) hemming. It looked good, but my lack of skills back then made it not great. I feel much better about how it looks now! Here's the before; sorry about the crappy after pic- it looks great in person!

Changes made:
-New, bigger sleeves that are sewn into the armscye. Box pleats at the shoulder. Perfect pattern matching to show off the fabulous fabric.
- Removed the red velvet ribbon neckline binding. Made the shoulder straps about a half inch thinner. Put new binding on.
-Re-hemmed the skirt and added a red velvet guard for some extra punch.
-Bought wider, fancier lace and sewed it to the sleeve cuffs, only after finding documentation that I could have lace cuffs AND lace wrist ruffs at the same time! I still have to tack the lace a bit more at the tips and add a few swarovski pearls for more bling.

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

New Elizabethan Corset

A few weeks ago I decided to start working on a new corset. My purple one (which can be seen several posts back), despite looking very cool, just didn't fit well enough. I discovered this at Pennsic last august, when I wore it underneath my gold Florentine.

Problems with the purple corset:
-too big at waist and bust
-shoulder straps too loose at the back (bad patterning)
-tabs too short. this caused the boning to stab into my back and hips
-too few layers. the boning tips would rub against my skin, having just one layer of duck cloth and one outer of silk
-just looked sloppy to me.

I knew I could do better, so I've been working on this new corset. Gold silk outer, interlining of cotton twill, lining of duck cloth. Boned with .5" and .25" spring steel. Pattern drafted by me. I made the tabs over an inch longer than the old ones, which will prevent them from digging into my hips.

All that I've got left to do is the eyelets and binding (the parts that take the longest!).